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Author: 張翠園
Tsui-Yuan Chang
Thesis Title: 台灣服裝設計師的時尚密碼 -服裝設計模式之研究-
Taiwan Fashion Designer’s Fashion DNA A Model of Fashion Design Process
Advisor: 吳克振
Cou-chen Wu
Committee: 盧希鵬
Hsi-pen Lu
陳建雄
Chien-hsiung Chen
Degree: 碩士
Master
Department: 管理學院 - 管理研究所
Graduate Institute of Management
Thesis Publication Year: 2007
Graduation Academic Year: 95
Language: 中文
Pages: 152
Keywords (in Chinese): 設計過程時尚創意女裝設計影響因素
Keywords (in other languages): Design Process, Fashion, Creativity, Apparel Design, Influencing factors
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  • 台灣的時尚服裝業以「設計開發部」為首,引領整體企業的策略與運行方向,是影響企業發展的最主要因素。但是,在服裝設計的領域裡大都強調「設計作品成果」,對於設計過程或是相關設計學理的研究則十分缺乏。因此,本研究以「在設計的過程中,影響服裝設計師的因素」為研究主軸,以「台灣服裝時尚品牌首席設計師」為研究的主體,主要的目的為:尋找「在設計過程中影響服裝設計師的因素」,同時歸納與建構出「服裝設計師的設計模式」。

    本研究利用「紮根理論」透過科學性的資料搜集與深度訪談,有系統的剖析服裝設計師在創作的過程中,影響設計風格的因素。並藉由服裝設計師與教師的經驗,結合服裝設計系學生的想法,找出設計過程中的重要影響因素,同時歸納與建構出服裝設計師的設計模式。此設計模式,經由大學部服裝設計系同學在設計比賽中得到理想的驗證成果。研究者希望此設計模式可提供時尚界的服裝設計師、教育界的設計教師以及設計系的學生在從事服裝創作時的參考。

    研究結果發現:(1) 在設計過程中,影響服裝設計師最主要的因素為「美學因素」;其次為「市場因素」、「心理因素」、「歷史因素」、「社會因素」,而未來派風格的「電腦動畫與科技因素」,有逐漸崛起的趨勢。(2) 設計流程步驟為:規劃、分析、創意、評估與傳達。除此之外,研究者注意到:設計初期創意靈感啟發的重要性。而創意的啟發可以透過淨化心靈、靜坐、正面思考…等得到靈感,未來的研究可以朝這一方面繼續深入探討,讓設計師的創意更活絡,作品更臻完美。


    Taiwan fashion apparel industry is driven by the department of design and development. It directs the overall business strategy and operations. Fashion design and innovation is the most influential factor on apparel business development. In the field of fashion design, the emphasis has been put on the exhibition of design work results. There is a lack of academic research focusing on the fashion design process and design theory. This research aims to identify major factors influencing the design process of Taiwan fashion designers. A model of design process was constructed based on the perception of these chief designers of Taiwan fashion brands.

    In this research, major factors influencing the design process were identified by using the qualitative research method of grounded theory synthesized from data collection and in-depth interviews. A model of design process was inductively formulated through the perceptions of fashion designers and educators, and students. The design process was validated by a group of students in a design contest. The researcher hopes this model of design process will provide reference resources for fashion designers, educators, and students.

    This study reveals the following: (1) Aesthetic presence was the core factor identified from the design process, followed by marketing factor, psychological factor, historical factor, social attitude, and the emerging computer animation and technology. (2) The model of fashion design process consists of five steps: planning, analysis, creativity, evaluation, and communication. In addition, the author notes the importance of “creative inspiration” in the very early stage of design process. Creative inspiration can be discovered through purification of mind, mediation, and positive thinking. Further research in this area can inspire fashion designers to innovate and to perfect their design

    第一章 緒論 1.1 研究背景與動機 1 1.2 研究目的 4 1.3 研究範圍與限制 5 1.4 研究架構 8 1.5 研究名詞與解釋 11 第二章 文獻探討 2.1 服裝設計領域相關文獻整理 12 2.2 啟發服裝設計師之設計靈感因素 21 2.3 建築設計與工業設計之設計過程 39 2.4 服裝設計過程之分析架構 41 2.5 紮根理論 41 第三章 研究方法 3.1 質性研究方法論 45 3.2 研究對象 52 3.3 資料蒐集 53 3.4 問卷設計 54 3.5 資料分析 58 第四章 結果與討論 4.1 訪談資料分析 60 4.2 問卷答覆之開放性譯碼分析 61 4.2.1. 服裝設計師之開放性譯碼 61 4.2.2. 服裝系教師之開放性譯碼 77 4.2.3. 服裝系學生之開放性譯碼 89 4.3 服裝設計師、教師與學生之共同矩陣分析 107 4.4 結果與討論 113 4.4.1. 影響台灣服裝設計師因素之理論架構 114 4.4.2. 台灣服裝設計師之設計流程模式 117 4.5 設計流程體驗 120 4.5.1 設計準備 120 4.5.2 設計流程體驗 121 4.5.3 設計流程驗證成果評估 123 第五章 結論與建議 5.1 結論 125 5.2 未來相關研究之建議 129 參考文獻 131 附錄 139

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