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研究生： 曾澤銘
Tse-Ming Tseng
論文名稱： 高支數針織用麻紗試紡之研究
A Study on the Spinning Process of High Count Linen Yarn for Knitted Fabrics
指導教授： 蘇清淵
Ching- Iuan Su
口試委員: 李俊毅
none
邱顯堂
none
學位類別： 碩士
Master
系所名稱： 工程學院 - 材料科學與工程系
Department of Materials Science and Engineering
論文出版年： 2008
畢業學年度： 96
語文別： 中文
論文頁數： 94
中文關鍵詞： 亞麻纖維 、高支數 、針織用麻紗 、品質參數
外文關鍵詞： linen fiber, high count, knitting linen yarn, yarn quality index
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    • 本研究首先使用T02與TK8，未精練亞麻纖維為原料紡製梭織用Ne16麻紗。然後以此紡紗技術為基礎，採用L2000與L2006精練麻纖維為原料，進行開發高支數針織用麻紗。
    實驗中針對麻纖維原料進行其各種特性，如纖維長度、纖維細度、纖維強力等做測試與分析。來徹底瞭解各種纖維的品質。實驗中紡製各種麻紗，係使用一般短纖紡紗系統與技術，其流程為：
    清花製程 精紡製程、以紡出Ne16梭織用紗與Ne20及Ne30針織用紗。在紡製針織用麻紗與梭織用麻紗，分別改變羅拉隔距、撚系數、與紡紗速度來探討各種開紡條件對麻紗品質的影響。
    在評估麻紗的細紗品質時，採用品質參數(支數*單紗強力*RKM)/非均勻度做為評估指標。
    由實驗結果得知，使用L2000與L2006麻纖維原料紡製高支數針織用麻紗Ne20與Ne30時，在變化其紡紗條件時，由品質參數的評估得知較寬的後羅拉隔距，配合較高的撚系數與較低的紡紗速度可以得到較佳的麻紗。

    This research uses T02 and TK8 un-concise linen fibers as raw materials to spin Ne16 tatting linen yarn at first. Then base on this spinning technique to develop high count knitting linen yarn by using L2000 and L2006 concise linen fibers as raw materials.

    In the experiment, test and analyze various characteristics of linen fiber raw material, such as fiber length, fiber fineness, and fiber strength etc., in order to understand the quality of various fibers thoroughly. Common short fiber spinning system and technique is used to spin various linen yarns. Its process includes opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, and spinning engineering. The purpose is to spin Ne16 tatting linen yarn and Ne20 and Ne30 knitting linen yarns. In the process of spinning the knitting linen yarn and the tatting linen yarn, the roller gap, twist multiplier and spinning speed are changed to study the influence of various spinning conditions on the quality of linen yarn.

    Upon assessing the quality of fine linen yarn, the yarn quality index is adopted as the assessment index. From the experimental result, it is known when L2000 and L2006 linen fibers are used to spin high count Ne20 and Ne30 knitting linen yarns, better linen yarn can be got under wider roller gap, higher twist multiplier, and lower spinning speed.

    目 錄 中文摘要..................................................................................................I 英文摘要..................................................................................................II 誌謝.........................................................................................................III 目錄.........................................................................................................IV 圖目錄.....................................................................................................VII 表目錄......................................................................................................IX 第一章 前言............................................................................................1 1.1 現今趨勢..........................................................................................2 1.2 未來發展趨勢..................................................................................4 1.3 亞麻生產流程.................................................................................12 1.3.1 精練亞麻生產流程..............................................................12 1.3.2 未經精練亞麻生產流程......................................................12 1.3.3 棉型亞麻(含苧麻)測試項目................................................13 1.3.4 亞麻分級...............................................................................14 第二章 麻紗纖維材質特性探討............................................................15 2.1 麻紗纖維材質..................................................................................15 2.2 麻纖維的形態特徵與品質特徵......................................................16 第三章 實驗............................................................................................17 3.1 麻纖維原料及檢驗..........................................................................17 3.2 實驗機械與儀器設備......................................................................20 3.3 實驗設計與流程..............................................................................41 3.4 實驗方法..........................................................................................42 第四章 結果與討論................................................................................43 4.1 麻紗紡製流程行為探討..................................................................43 4.1.1 清花(開清棉製程) ..............................................................43 4.1.2 清花機械之設定條件及流程規格.......................................46 4.1.3 技術問題及對策...................................................................47 4.2 梳綿製程.........................................................................................48 4.2.1 移行率..................................................................................48 4.2.2 梳棉機紡麻紗技術設定條件..............................................49 4.2.3 技術問題及對策..................................................................49 4.3 併條製程........................................................................................54 4.3.1 併條之目的.........................................................................54 4.3.2 纖維鉤討論.........................................................................54 4.3.3 併條工程紡紗技術設定條件.............................................55 4.3.4 併條製程技術問題及對策.................................................55 4.4 粗紡製程.......................................................................................69 4.4.1 亞麻于粗紡製程的目的.....................................................69 4.4.2 粗紡製程技術之設定條件.................................................69 4.4.3 粗紡製程技術之變動設定條件.........................................70 4.4.4 粗紡製程技術問題及對策.................................................75 4.5 精紡技術問題及對策....................................................................76 4.5.1 精紡麻紗原料T02&TK8紡 Ne16梭織用紗......................78 4.5.2 精紡麻紗原料L2000&L2006紡 Ne20針織用紗..............81 4.5.3 精紡麻紗原料L2000&L2006紡 Ne30針織用紗..............84 4.5.4 精紡技術問題及對策.........................................................87 4.5.5 麻紗紡製最佳條件討論.....................................................88 第五章 結論..........................................................................................89 參考文獻..................................................................................................90 圖 目 錄 圖1.1 亞麻纖維的利用循環過程............................................................11 圖3.1 抓棉機............................................................................................21 圖3.2 鬆包機BO1500...............................................................................22 圖3.3 直立式開棉機AV-50.....................................................................23 圖3.4 WT-200過磅機...............................................................................24 圖3.5 EVA1均勻機...................................................................................25 圖3.6 混棉機MIX-8...............................................................................26 圖3.7 開清棉機CM.................................................................................27 圖3.8 MEIKIN TANDEM CARD 梳棉機....................................................28 圖3.9 MEIKIN TANDEM CARD 梳棉機....................................................29 圖3.10 東夏併條機，（頭道+二道Auto Leveeling，原CHERRY DX-500 SERIAL）......................................................................................30 圖3.11 TOYODA FL100粗紗機.................................................................31 圖3.12 PLATT 800 精紡機......................................................................32 圖3.13 MURATA 21C筒子機.....................................................................33 圖3.14 USTER儀器UT4............................................................................34 圖3.15 USTER強力試驗機UTR4..............................................................35 圖3.16 Twist Test Machine..................................................................36 圖3.17 搖黑板機......................................................................................37 圖3.18 USTER HVI SPECTRUM..................................................................38 圖3.19 USTER棉粒試驗儀器...................................................................39 圖3.20 USTER儀器UT4..............................................................................40 表目錄 表1.1 亞麻纖維的分類、產地與用途....................................................... 6 表1.2 全球亞麻纖維的產能.......................................................................7 表1.3 全球苧麻纖維產能...........................................................................8 表1.4 亞麻與苧麻纖維化性的比較...........................................................9 表1.5 亞麻.苧麻與棉纖維物性的比較......................................................10 表1.6 棉型亞麻測試項目...........................................................................13 表3.1 亞麻.原物料檢驗標準......................................................................18 表3.2 亞麻苧麻允收標準...........................................................................19 表4.1 亞麻纖維 T02 TK8未開紡前檢視纖維長度、強力、細度..............44 表4.2 亞麻纖維L2000、L2006未開紡前檢視纖維長度、強力、細度...45 表4.3 使用針布規格...................................................................................50 表4.4 梳棉機速度設定及隔距...................................................................51 表4.5 未精鍊亞麻T02&TK8麻層,麻生條纖維試驗記錄.........................52 表4.6 精鍊亞麻l2000&l2006麻層，麻生條纖維試驗記錄...................53 表4.7 亞麻纖維T02&TK8與L2000&L2006.................................................56 表4.8 半熟條(semi sliver of lin驗en)纖維試記錄...........................59 表4.9 熟條( sliver of linen)纖維試驗記錄.........................................61 表4.10 半熟條(semi sliver of linen)纖維試驗記錄............................64 表4.11 熟條( sliver of linen)纖維試驗記錄.........................................66 表4.12 粗紡麻紗T02&TK8品質報表 羅拉隔距42*44*50.........................71 表4.13 粗紡麻紗T02&TK8品質報表 羅拉隔距50*55*60.........................72 表4.14 粗紡麻紗L2000&L2006品質報表 羅拉隔距42*44*50..................73 表4.15 粗紡麻紗L2000&L2006品質報表 羅拉隔距50*55*60.................74 表4.16 platt 800精紡機，,三線羅拉牽伸條件表...................................77 表4.17 精紡麻紗Ne16品質..........................................................................79 表4.18 精紡麻紗Ne16品質..........................................................................80 表4.19 精紡麻紗Ne20品質..........................................................................82 表4.20 精紡麻紗Ne20品質..........................................................................83 表4.21 精紡麻紗Ne30品質..........................................................................85 表4.22 精紡麻紗Ne30品質.........................................................................86

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