本研究以二羥甲基乙烯尿素（DMEU）為架橋劑對棉布進行不同加工條件及不同加工方式之樹脂加工，以研究加工布物性及架橋構造。結果發現，熱處理溫度愈高、時間愈長架橋長度愈短，架橋根數愈多；且加工布乾皺紋回複角（DCRA）與架橋根數X 架橋完整度（γ√nα）具直線關係，即DCRA=KD1γ√nα+KD0，但KD1 為常數；加工布濕皺紋回複角（WCRA）與架栯根數X架橋長度X架橋完整度（γnα）具直線關係，即WCRA=KW1γnα+KW0，熱處理溫度愈高、時間愈長，KW1 愈低，加工布因架橋所引起的強力損失（SL''）與架橋根數X架橋完整度（γα）亦具直線關係，即SL''=KSγα，KS不受熱處理條件影響。變化預乾之處理條件，加工布之架橋構造亦隨之變化；且預乾後布上殘留水份率愈多，DCRA與γ√nα之直線偏離愈顯著，壓吸液中之溶劑以20%甲醇水溶液取代會稍微降低KD1；預乾溫度愈低KW1愈大，以乾燥皿預乾亦有較高之 KW1，壓吸液中之水以20%甲醇水溶液取代者KW1更高。WCRA與γnα之線性關係於γnα>100處發生轉折，此轉折現象隨KW1之增大而更形顯著。改變加工方式（如濕焙（wet-cure）或沈聚（poly-set））均不影響DCRA、WCRA及 SL''與各架橋構造之直線性關係。

其KD1及KW1會因加工方式及條件而變，但KS則不因加工方式而變。影響 KD1之主要因素為加工布中纖維內之氫鍵保護效果；影響 KW1之主要因素為加工布內纖維之膨潤性。

加工布物性平衡方面，在獲得同一DCRA下，WCRA下以二段式濕焙（two-step wet-cure）最好，壓吸－乾燥－熱焙（pad dry cure）最差，two-step poly-set居中。在獲得同一加工布乾、濕皺紋回復角下加工布之強力保持率則二段式者相差不多，pad dry cure者最差。在同一架橋構造下（γnα）two-step wet-cure可得到最佳之DCRA；在同一架橋構造下（γnα）two-step wet-cure亦可得到最佳之WCRA。

In this study, DMEU (crosslinking agent) was used to treat the cotton fabrics by changing the conditions and processes of finishing. The physical properties and the crosslinking structures were studied. From the results, it can be found that the higher curing temperature and the longer curing time can create a shorter length of crosslinks. The DCRA is related to the r√nα of the treated fabrics, ie., DCRA=KD1 r√nα+K D0'' where KD1 is a constant; the WCRA is related to the rnα of the treated fabrics, ie., WCRA=KW1 RNα+kw0'' where KW1 is decreased with the elevation of

curing temperature and the lengthening of curing time; and the strength loss caused only by the crosslinks (SL'') is almost related to the rα of the treated fabrics, ie., SL''=KSrα , where the KS is almost a constant. By changing the predrying conditions, the crosslinking structures are changed. The degree of the deviation of the linear relation between DCRA nd r√nα is increased with increasing the moisture content in predried

fabrics; the padding solution containing 20% methanol will slightly

decrease the the KD1. The KW1 is decreased with the elevation of predrying temperature. The treated fabrics which predried under a drying dish and padded with the padding solution containing 20% methanol have higher KW1 and obvious turning phenomenon of the linear relation between WCRA and rno at rnα >100.

The changes of the finishing process (wet-cure or poly-set process) do not affect the linear relation between the physical properties and the crosslinking structures. The KD1 and KW1 are changed with the changing of finishing conditions and processes; the KS, however, is not changed with the changing of finishing process.

With a same DCRA, the treated fabrics by two-step wet-cure process have higher WCRA than that by two-steppoly-set and pad dry cure process. At a same DCRA or WCRA, the treated fabrics by two-step treatment have higher TRS than that by pad dry cure process. The treated fabrics by two-step wet-cure process have higher DCRA or WCRA at a same r√nα or rnα, respectively.

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